It the handle seems loose, it might be due to the handle coming into contact with the pan before getting tight. I cut off a wee amount from the end of my handle & it was a done deal. Worked like magic.

I coat the wooden parts with food grade MINERAL OIL, sold as a laxative at CVS and other drug stores, and it is the best for wooden spatulas and spoons and cutting boards and the like. (Non-food grade is actually baby OIL but has fragrance in it. If you wouldn’t eat it, don’t season with it!)

Cover the wood parts with aluminum foil after coating. Put the shiny side of the foil out, so it reflects more of the heat. Put the pan in the oven at 300 degrees for about 45 minutes. The foil keeps it from overheating or burning.

WORKS GREAT! Makes the handles look almost new!

I use mineral oil with all my cutting boards and wooden spoons and the like, but if it is all wood I only heat to 200 degrees, and don’t use the foil.

Candy Eve

Probably the best hint for choosing material would be to follow the trail of boat builders. While it’s best to remove the handle and wipe–not wash, that might not be practical with your piece. I do know an old sailor’s trick that will get you a better finish: dilute any surface coatings with thinner for better absorption.

What kind of wood do you recommend for repeated washing snd heating?
I’ve a 11″ oak handle that lasted 10 years on a well used aluminum skillet, it has a brass pin,but has cracked,internal pressure, even tho’ it had an ebony minwax stain and coats of waterproof urethane. I need to fabricate this because it is a Danish cast 2 sided grid/flat skillet, and requires a flat , symmetrical almost Shaker styled, modern handle. I can get, use exotic or domestic specie, just wondered what is most durable for repeated heating, cooling, and water spray..